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Surfboard Glassing and fin placement

Jeremy has been glassing surfboards since 1986 and he is widely considered to be one of the best all round surfboard glassers in the country.  Recently Jeremy had the opportunity to hone his resin tint work with Tyler Hatzikian world class surfboard glasser, shaper and longboarder .  Jeremy has a passion for glassing surfboards to the highest standard what ever the requirements. 

For more Surfboard Glassing and Resin Tints Check the gallery  

                                                             

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The blank, in this case a brightly sprayed longboard, is brought into the surfboard glassing room and is ready for glassing/laminating. When the fibreglass has been placed over the underside of the surfboard, the excess is cut away leaving enough for the 'Laps'.

 


     

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The fibreglass is then rolled back so that the surfboard decals/logos can be laminated under the cloth.

 


     

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With the decals in place and the fibreglass covering the bottom of the blank, resin is poured over the glass and begins 'wetting out' the cloth.

 


     

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Working from the center, using a rubber squeegy and well trained wrist action, the resin is pulled over the surfboard and is worked into the cloth. 

 


     

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After working resin into the fibreglass over the whole length of the surfboard, being careful not to leave the cloth too dry (leading to inconsistancies in strength) or too wet (heavy surfboard) it is time to pour the excess over the rails to wet the laps.


     

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The resin poured down the rails is then squeegied off the rail of the surfboard, allowing a certain amount of resin to run down the 'laps'.  Any excess that runs off the laps is caught in the resin bucket.


     

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When the laps are completely saturated with resin they are ready to be pulled tight around the rail on to the deck.


     

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The surfboard would then be left overnight to cure or placed into our 12' long u.v light box for 20 minutes.

 

 Here at Laminations we can mix our resin with an additive which in turn allows us to cure the resin using ultra violet light. The biggest benefit to this is that 24 hours after glassing your new board is as strong as the usual 2 week cure and ready to ride.

 


     

Sand Coat

When the surfboard blank has been laminated/glassed top and bottom it is ready for the 'sand coat'/'filler coat'.  This layer of resin is mixed with a wax solution which allows the resin to be sanded.

 

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In this photo the resin is being spread across the board in order to fill the weave and dimples of the cloth. The rails have also been masked off so that the resin doesn't run and give the sander more work than is necessary.

 


     

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The resin is then applied with a brush taking care to build up around the rails and tail where a little extra sanding will be necessary.

 


     

 

Fining Surfboards

The placement for the fins are determined by the shaper who marks them onto the surfboard blank before passing it on to the next department. The fin position and angles are crucial for the way your board will ride and feel.

 

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If the surfboard is to have a removable fin system, in this case a 2 plug system, specialised templates are used to determine where the holes for the plugs should be drilled.

 


     

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Once again, using specially designed equipment, the plug holes are drilled into the surfboard. You better have your measurements right once you start there's no turning back.

 


     

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Once the holes have been drilled and cleared of any dust or foam the plugs are placed onto jigs and positioned correctly into the surfboard.

 


     

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The fin jigs are then leaned out towards the rail at the correct 'cant' for the board, in this case 6 degrees should be perfect.

 


     

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When Skippy is happy with the positions and angles of the gigs the holes surrounding the plugs are filled with resin and left to set. A similar technique is used to drill out for the leash plug.

The surfboard is now ready to leave the glassing room to be sanded.

 


     

                                          

  

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